Chronographs are funny things. When you don’t know anything about watches, they seem like the most interesting option. They are full of a tool like purpose as usually they will have a direct connection to racing, aviation or sailing and that often guides the non-watch person in the purchase of their first chronograph. The usual fashion watch suspects are well presented in the entry-level overpriced quartz chronograph market – Fossil, Diesel, Rotary (sorry), Fillipo Loretti, Armani etc. As seasoned watch guy – or girl, may rightfully look down their noses at these all show -no go timepieces as the naive missteps of an inexperienced watch collector. As timepieces, most chronographs tend to be a bit busy, too thick, expensive, unreliable or conversely expensive to maintain. For my part, I have a very sentimental attachment to the few Quartz fashion chronographs that I own. I bought them when I was young and enthusiastic but a tad ignorant and I really genuinely imagined myself timing things…
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Buy here – Seagull Official Store
Once I got into mechanical watches, however, it all changed. The intoxicating magic of mechanical watches is for many the reason why they are into horology. There is something just so mesmerising about all those little gears cogs and wheels doing their thing on your wrist with you everywhere you go. This is something that Quartz and – oh god – smart Watches just cannot compete with. Mechanical chronographs, however, are a different animal. In general terms, anyone with a half-decent job can get a nice automatic Seiko or Orient on their wrist and just about anyone can get hold of an Ali Express special with a Seiko movement. Mechanical Chronographs, not so much there are very very few affordable Mechanical Chronos. Swatch group mechanical chronographs start at about £700 ($950 US) and that is a significant amount of money to spend on not the world’s most handsome Tissot. What’s more, they are as thin on the ground as they are thick on the wrist, Seiko no longer appears to make an entry-level mechanical chronograph (no one is ever sure what Seiko actually makes at any time).
While there are undoubtedly many very lovely mechanical chronographs priced over £1,000, especially so when you get over £2,000, there is no denying that this is indeed a lot of money. Now I know that someone will point to me that there are some microbrands making sub £1000 mechanical chronographs but unless they are using one specific movement, they are also very few and far between. So let’s get down to it. The titular Seagull automatic chronograph. Anyone who is into the Chinese watch phenomenon will be familiar with the Seagull 190X family of movements and the many fascinating watches they have spawned. A lot of people however still have a very dim view of the Chinese watch industry or perhaps no view of it at all.
1963
The Seagull 1963 (buy here) is a rerelease of a pilots’ watch concept for the Chinese People’s Liberation Army Airforce. It is undeniably a pretty thing however the real 1960s PLAA chronograph was a much more conservatively designed competitor to this so no Mig 21 ever took to the air with this on the pilot’s wrist. The watch pictured in this article is one of many variants of this watch Available on Ali Express from a host of sellers. There is apparently an original/most official version of the watch but in reality, they are all much of a muchness quality and authenticity wise and they are great little watches. They are available in a couple of diameters with the option of lenses in either sapphire or nicely period-authentic domed acrylic. The Sapphire is domed but much more modestly. You can pick variations of this watch up depending. on the time of year for anything from $120- $300, the more expensive ones without the display case backs are allegedly the most authentic.
The Movement
These watches tend to use the Seagull ST1901 movement. This is a hand-wound mechanical movement it is a column-wheel type chronograph that started life the Swiss-made Venus Cal.175 movement to which the Chinese bought the rights ad the tooling and shipped over to China in approximately 1961. It is a beautiful movement. At its base model, the ST1901 is a three-hander with two additional subdials, the running small seconds and a minute track reading up to 30 minutes. The large second hand is the stop-start Chrono second. It runs at 21600bph which equates to 6 ticks per second. There are a host of subvariants with different complications. The following is, I believe and an exhaustive list of subvariants.
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- ST1901: 2 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3
- ST1902: 3 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, 12 h register at 6 that mirrors the time-keeping hour hand
- ST1903: 3 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, 24 h register at 6 that is not affiliated with the chronograph function
- ST1905: 2 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, decentral power reserve at 4:30
- ST1906: 2 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, decentral power reserve at 6
- ST1907: 2 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, central power reserve indicator
- ST1908: 4 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, date at 12, real moon phase at
- ST1940: 2 register, small seconds at 9, 30 min counter at 3, automatic
This wealth of subvariants means that in addition to the 2 register versions there are numerous, very appealing watches out there with moon phase complications, dates and other charming differences to suit the needs of your watch collection and personal style.
What’s Out There
Watches based on these movements have exploded on Ali Express. I would not hazard a guess to the number of variants out there but there is a handful that I find especially charming that I would like to share here.
The one I bought…
I didn’t buy well, I had been planning to get into these watches for a while and I waited for the Ali Express 11 11 sales to buy one. The one I was really after was not on sale so I gave in to discount FOMO and bought my second choice the Sugess Chronograph. (Available here)
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Don’t get me wrong it is a lovely watch and fro £130 fantastic, unbelievable value. However, there were a few problems with it that I realise would not have been so on my first choice. Firstly, the strap. It is terrible. It is not leather, it isn’t even leather’s cousin. I t is unrepentant plastic and should be discarded immediately. However, I did have a bit of trouble finding a strap that I was happy with. I tried it on a mesh but at 18mm it worth a little poncy as the mesh element of the strap was on 17mm. I then tried it on an elasticated nato. It looked good only the grey with a red pinstripe but it wore badly. It has a small diameter and is relatively thick for its height and it felt rather bobbly. I eventually got it on a Horween strap that cost too much money but really looks great. The out of the box strap really is despicable.
Secondly the handset. They are too thin and against the silver dial very difficult to read t a glance. In the stock photography they show up well however in reality they could benefit from being a tad broader for better legibility.
And without being too picky at the price, it was really cheap, it could be a little more while still being cheap, the dial itself is not special. the indices are nice, the 12 and 6 especially so but the silver paint and printed logo are especially meh. An applied logo and raised printing would have made a world of difference.
Finally and this is mos bug deal, as the lume on the indices is very weak anyway, the lume on the hands is all but non-existent. This means at night you can see the indices but not tell the time, utterly pointless.
The One I wanted
I wanted the Piere Paulin. (available here) I had seen a review video about it and I was as impressed as the reviewer. The branding is strong and they really seem to have done as good a job as possible at the price.
This elegant little watch (38mm across) seems to have got everything right that the Sugess got wrong. The hands are broader with a touch more lume. The strap is leather and chunky to beef up this dainty watch. The logo seems to be raised print and the subdials have white rather than silver hands. Polished silver hands have the horrible tendency to reflect white on a white background and black on a black background rendering them invisible most of the time. this one I recommend. It is just £40 more than the Suggest and at the time I wasn’t sure why. I now know the reason.
Others I Fancy
I love the surfboard chronographs from the 1970s. Bulova does a great example, as does Yema. They both cost hundreds. The Merkur FOD, a terrible name I know, is a budget stunner. Available in blue and green colourways, one of these is on the list, the only thing holding me back is deciding which! They are usually available for less than $200 on Aliexpress. (Available here)
This sexy little number sports an amazing sunburst green dial, paddle hands, a funky surfboard set of subdials. It’s just cool and lots of fun. These watches only have 50m of water resistance. I would not really recommend them as watersports companions. In general chronographs and water only mich well when you have screw-down pushers Daytona style, absent from these watches. That said you should, if very lazy be safe to shower with one of these on the wrist, but why would you?
Another favourite of mine is this very unusual doctor’s chronograph. (Available here) You really do not see many of these out there. It seems to be a bit passe, I imagine modern doctors have specialist equipment for this role now but I think they are not only genuinely useful they have an old-world charm about them that I find very endearingly retro. Also by Pierre Paulin, this one does not make any suggestions of sportiness but rather is an elegant design perhaps from the decade before the1963, it has a very 1930s to 1950s look to is. IT also has a faux croc strap that I have no doubt will be absolutely appaling
After being less than gracious about my Sugess panda dial I am going to give Sugess another shot. They have this really charming moon phase – date dial chronograph. (available here) A moon phase is another classic complication that while not being particularly useful is very entertaining and brings a welcome pop of colour and fun to a dial. I also have nothing quite like it so I am so sorely tempted. Please be good!!!
I would love to see comments below about your experiences with Seagull Chronographs and which are your favourites. chronograph watch
“When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.”